On the Matter of Brass and Sustainability

A reflection on material choice, longevity and the questions behind making jewellery.

Brass has a long history in jewellery, architecture and decorative art. Made from copper and zinc, it is valued for its warm colour, durability and ability to take on a wide range of forms and finishes.

Its place in contemporary jewellery raises an interesting question: what does sustainability mean when the material is only one part of the story?

Brass offers designers considerable freedom. It can be shaped into intricate forms, worked into sculptural designs and finished in ways that complement enamel, glass, pearls and other materials. For a brand such as Annasach, this versatility creates room to explore colour, texture and ornament without relying exclusively on precious metals.

But the environmental impact of a piece begins well before it reaches the wearer. Copper and zinc must be sourced and processed. Manufacturing requires energy, while surface treatments, packaging and transport all contribute to a product’s overall footprint. Research into jewellery supply chains highlights the importance of considering these stages together rather than judging a piece by its principal material alone.

Longevity is another part of the conversation.

Jewellery is often bought for a particular moment, then set aside when its appeal fades or its condition deteriorates. A well-considered design has the potential to remain in use for much longer, moving between occasions and becoming part of a person's everyday wardrobe.

That depends on more than appearance. Construction, finish, care and the way a piece is worn all influence how it ages. Gold-plated brass, for example, requires thoughtful care because the surface finish can wear with friction and exposure to moisture or chemicals. Clear information about looking after a piece helps the wearer make informed decisions about its use and maintenance.

There are also questions about what happens when jewellery reaches the end of its life. Brass is a recyclable alloy, although the recovery of a finished piece can depend on its composition, coatings and the recycling facilities available. Designing with material recovery in mind is one way the industry can think more carefully about what happens beyond the point of sale.

At Annasach, brass gives us a versatile foundation for exploring form, colour and detail. We use gold-plated brass alongside materials such as glass, enamel and pearls, allowing each piece to develop its own character.

We also recognise that choosing a particular material is only one decision within a much larger process. More responsible jewellery making requires attention to sourcing, manufacturing, finish, packaging and the life a piece goes on to have.

Perhaps the more useful question is not whether one material can make jewellery sustainable on its own, but what decisions can help a piece remain valued, worn and cared for over time.

Brass has been worked for centuries. Its future in jewellery will depend, in part, on how thoughtfully it is used today.

Annasach